Motorbike trip across Flores, Indonesia. Flores is one of the most underrated islands of the Indonesian archipelago and one of the best places in Southeast Asia to do a serious motorbike trip. The combination of dramatic landscapes, traditional villages and a road network that is rough enough to be interesting but not punishing makes the island ideal for a five-stage motorbike route.
Stage 1: Labuan Bajo to Ruteng (132 km). The trip starts in Labuan Bajo, the fishing port on the western coast of the island that is also the gateway to Komodo National Park. Helmets on, we headed inland towards Ruteng. The road runs along the coastline for the first stretch with views of clear water and dramatic cliffs, and then turns inland through volcanic terrain. After around three and a half hours of riding, we arrived in Ruteng, a small town tucked between green mountains. In Ruteng we explored the traditional architecture, walked the local market and tried gado-gado (a vegetable salad with peanut sauce that became one of our favourite dishes of the trip).
Stage 2: Ruteng to Manulalu (149 km). The road heads next to Manulalu, a small village in the hills above Bajawa. The climb up was the most scenic part of the day: terraced rice fields, cattle, and panoramic views over green valleys. Around four hours of riding, with several stops for photos. We stayed in a wooden cabin with views over a small lake, and spent the afternoon trekking through the surrounding jungle and finding small waterfalls. The night here was completely silent, which is something you do not get often on a trip like this.
Stage 3: Bajawa to Moni (174 km). Day three took us through Bajawa, an area known for its traditional villages and natural hot springs, and onwards to Moni. The route gives you panoramic views of the volcanic chain that runs through the centre of Flores. Around four and a half hours of riding. We arrived in Moni and joined a local village celebration that evening, with traditional music, dancing and food. The next morning, we rode up to Mount Kelimutu before sunrise to see the famous three-coloured crater lakes. The lakes are the highlight of any trip across Flores, and seeing them as the sun rises is one of those experiences that justifies the entire trip on its own.
Stage 4: Moni to Riung (169 km). From the volcanic heart of the island, we rode towards the northern coast and the village of Riung, known for its small offshore islands and snorkelling reefs. Nearly five hours of riding through changing landscapes. In Riung, we hired a small boat to visit the surrounding islands and spent the day snorkelling among healthy coral reefs and large schools of fish. The sunset that evening on the beach was one of the best of the trip.
Stage 5: Riung back to Ruteng (162 km). The final leg took us back to Ruteng. The road runs through a mix of coastal sections and inland hills, and the riding is the most varied of the whole trip. Four hours and thirty-five minutes back in the saddle, and we closed the loop.
Final thoughts. A motorbike trip across Flores is one of the most rewarding ways to experience this part of Indonesia. The roads are rough in places but manageable for anyone with reasonable motorbike experience, the people are exceptionally friendly, and the variety of landscapes (volcanoes, rice terraces, jungle, beaches, coral reefs) packed into a small island is hard to find elsewhere. If you have ten days in Indonesia and want something different from Bali, Flores by motorbike is a strong recommendation.
